THE PROBLEM WITH FANCY PRINTS: DESIRABLE DIFFERENCE, AUTHENTICITY, AND CONSUMER APPROPRIATION IN GHANAIAN FASHION

Textiles are the most representative symbol of the globalization of African fashion (Rovine 2014). A young generation of stylists and designers based in various regions of the continent consistently employs them to express and export a style imbued with pan-African pride. The turn to an African-inspired aesthetic able to drive fashion’s regeneration at the global level is evident in the widespread practice of cutting fabric …

THE PLACE OF AFRICA ON THE GLOBAL FASHION MAP

Last Monday an article by Robb Young appeared online in Business of Fashion. The article is a sort of blueprint to understand the hype surrounding the African fashion industry and, by extension, to decode the mainstream rhetoric and cultural politics that frame it. Young discusses Africa’s contribution to the global fashion industry, contending, as an increasing number of commentator do, that the continent has the potential to become a …

READING FILES: NICOLE R. FLEETWOOD, TROUBLING VISION (2011)

Troubling Vision (2011) is a key text for studying blackness and black identity from the point of view of visual studies. I am compelled by Fleetwood’s analysis of the double bind of blackness as something that saturates the field of vision, “troubling it” while also remaining complicit to, and thus reproducing, normative framings of racial difference. At the core of her …

TOWNSHIP FASHION GOES GLOBAL: BOYS OF SOWETO FOR BEN SHERMAN

To promote its 2015 Autumn Winter collection, Ben Sherman released a fashion film shot in Johannesburg in collaboration with a team of African talents. These include South African American director Meja Shoba, the Congolese musician Pierre Kwenders, and the Johannesburg-based collective Boys of Soweto (BOS), featuring as protagonists and stylists. The two-minute film takes place on a sports field, where three …

WHITENESS IS (ALSO) IN THE DRESS: BACKRA BLUID BY STACEY TYRELL

Stacey Tyrell is a Canadian artist who uses photography to explore themes of race, identity, and heritage in the African diaspora. In her most recent work, “Backra Bluid”, she envisions the hybrid lineage of Afro-diasporans, creating a gallery of self-portraits in which she impersonates her white ancestors. The titles of the photographs report only the name and age of each subject, leaving the viewer to guess the history …