Conference presentation on African designers in Italy

On 8 May, I presented the ongoing research on African designers in Italy that I am conducting with Caterina Pecchioli of “B&W: Black and White – The Migrant Trend”. The presentation, that we entitled “Designing Identity: A Visual Proposition to examine migrant and second-generation fashion in Italy” can be viewed at this link, starting at 4:26:22.

I interviewed Catherine McKinley, author of The African Lookbook

The African Lookbook is the new Bloomsbury publication gathering 130 photographs of stylish women taken between 1870 and 1970. The photographs belong to Catherine McKinley’s large collection of vernacular and studio shots from over 40 African countries and spanning the early colonial decades through the present. I had the pleasure to interview Catherine on the book, which is the first …

Asmaa Jama’s “Before we disappear” archives the realities of (in)visibility

Upon clicking “Enter,” Before We Disappear opens to a low-angle shot of a house surrounded by dense vegetation, seemingly immune to the vivid jabber and birdsong on the sound track. The camera pans over the encroaching shrubbery and the carvings on the outer walls instead, barely registering the human figure in a cream-coloured headscarf behind a screen of leaves and …

“Creativity In Motion” by Daniel Obasi

Nigerian stylist and photographer Daniel Obasi has recently collaborated with Vogue on an international project capturing Creativity in motion in various international locations. He shot the editorial on the railway tracks at Ebute-Metta, in his home city of Lagos, for Vogue’s March 2021 issue. Obasi is known for his arresting representations of moving bodies, which happen to be wrapped in beautiful outfits. The clothes highlight …

The Ancestral is Modern in Banyoloyi A Bosigo: my new guest post for Griot Mag is online

I wrote a second guest post for Griot Magazine on Kristin-Lee Moolman’s “Banyoloyi a Bosigo”, the new fashion film she wrote and directed for Thebe Magugu that was presented virtually at Paris Fashion Week early this month. The collection showcased in this work explores the revival of indigenous spirituality in South Africa and features several references to sacred rituals. Like …

Black Lives Matter in Italian Fashion

Last year, designers Stella Jean (of the eponymous brand) and Edward Buchanan (Sansovino 6) with Michelle Ngonmo, talent scout and founder of Afro Fashion Week Milano, started the collective “Black Lives Matter in Italian Fashion” to raise awareness on systemic racism in the industry. Their first intervention took place on the final day of Milano Fashion Week, in September 2020, …

Sustainability files – Managing fashion waste in Ghana

Obroni Wawu is the Akan expression for used clothes in Ghana. It translates to “the white man has died clothes”: a reference to Western material abundance. “Dead White Man’s Clothes” is also the name of the multimedia research project on the secondhand clothing trade that Americans Liz Ricketts and Branson Skinner begun in 2016 to investigate the impact of fast …

“Aliens to equals” – my guest post on MasaMara for GRIOTMAG

Griot is the reference platform for Black Italians, producing content for and on the black diaspora in Italy and abroad, including documentaries and live events. I contributed an article to their “Style” section on MasaMara, the activewear brand launched in 2016 by Amza Nyonzima, a.k.a. Eli Gold, a Rwandan refugee based in South Africa. In the fashion film introducing Migration is Beautiful – …

Victor Abbey-Hart on cultural misappropriation and integration in Italian fashion

Victor Reginald Bob Abbey-Hart is a designer and sculptor from Ghana’s coastal town of Saltpond. He officially launched Gavachy, a ready-to-wear brand of luxury “Neo-African” styles, in 2015 and has since showed several times in Ghana, Nigeria, and Togo, before relocating to Europe. Ghanaian aesthetic, particularly traditional textile designs and architecture, inspire his work. For “Occularcentrism”, his SS2018 collection, Victor …

Jackie May of Twyg discusses luxury, sustainability, and conscious consumerism in South Africa

Twyg is a not-for-profit media company founded by Jackie May, a writer and former editor at Marie Claire and The Times and now a full-time sustainability advocate. Twyg officially launched in February 2019 to promote an eco-conscious fashion and lifestyle in South Africa. The company, a member of the Union for Concerned Fashion Researchers, is aligned with the U.N. Sustainable …